Prusik Peak, West Ridge 5.7 II

June 11, 2007

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Chris in the basin below Prusk Peak, North Cascades, Washington. The West Ridge route ascends the left skyline.

Headed back to the North Cascades this June, planning to do a week of climbing with my cousin Chris Casey. We had planned on doing the West Ridge on Forbidden Peak, but rainy weather on the west side of the range changed our plans. So, on to Plan B - the West Ridge of Prusik Peak in the Enchantments range of the North Cascades, on the always-sunny east side of the range.

Left camp around 6:00am the next day. The basin still looked pretty clouded in the in early light, but we had about 4 miles to hike before we were at the base of the route, and figured we'd worry about the weather if it didn't clear by the time we got up there. Above Snow Lake the trail grew steadily more snowy, and basin was all snowed in, but with exposed rock on the ridges. Prusik was in and out of clouds all morning, but it looked like it would burn off. We left our axes at camp - probably a mistake - thinking we wouldn't need them since the ground was bare at Snow Lake. But the snow in the basin, which was frozen hard in the morning cold, had us picking our way up the bare rock on the west ridge rather than climbing snow up to Prusik Pass as described in the Cascades Select book.

We got to the base of the route about 9:30, and I think I set off on Pitch one by about 10am. Here's the route as you see it from the base. I wandered off to climber's right, staying near the arete for the top of the pitch and belaying below a small corner/roof. This didn't cause any problems, but made for an awkward move through the roof/corner - I think the actual route stays left.

It was cold enough (35F) that I opted to climb in gloves. But I took them off for the 5.7 slab that starts the third pitch. No big deal, but the fall would have been ugly. Chris followed without incident, and we kept cruising throught the 4-th class 4th pitch and through the 5.6 5th pitch to the top. The climbing was fun and the position of the route is superb.

Topped out around 1:30 or 2:00pm. Had some lunch and rapped down the north side. The walk around the base back to our packs ended up being the hairiest part of the day - kicking steps in soft snow, in climbing shoes, as we skirted the north side. If I had to to it again, I would have just carried everything over - the climbing is casual, and the travers is unnecessarily tense in climbing shoes (at least in early season snow).

Hiked out the next day, and ended up climbing the rest of the week at Frenchman's Coullee and Tieton, since the weather never cleared on the west side of the range. These areas were great - highly recommended. Plenty of great sport and trad climbing at FC, and great crack routes in Tieton.